Day #21 - 4/2/2011 - Kerrville, TX to Vanderpool, TX - 52 miles

The topographic map shows how hilly the 52 miles from  Kerrville to Vanderpool was.


Note to self: return to the Texas Hill Country and Kerrville when I get my RV so I can better enjoy the beautiful parks that line the Guadalupe River and the Museum of Western Art, featuring the work of living artists specializing in the themes of the American West.

We had our usual early start, cruising out of Kerrville's city streets under darkness.  Before long, we were on the highway that paralleled the Guadalupe River, named by the Spanish explorer  Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe by Alonso de León in 1689.  It is a popular destination for whitewater rafters, canoeists, kayakers and tubing and considered one of the top 100 trout streams.

One of the many parks along the Guadalupe River, this one in Ingram, Texas.

Guadalupe River conditions can change rapidly. The river flow is highly regulated and well maintained to ensure safety by the  dam at Canyon Lake operated by the Army Corps of Engineers.

The flowering Yucca was a common and pretty site.  Lani had biked ahead while I lingered to enjoy the special beauty along the river.

Culinary highlights of Texas include Texas Barbecue and smoked meats.  As common as the Texas State Flag was on front yards, so, too was the Offset Smoker.

It was 7:30am on a Saturday morning, and this man was already smoking a beef brisket (I asked.)

Winding our way along the Guadalupe River, we continued past Ingram to Hunt, Texas,a tiny unincorporated town that is a popular destination because of its location along the river.

This sign confused the heck out of me...was it a triple-entendre?  Was the 4H-Club in hunt expecting me to start shooting?  By the way, do you see Lani?  Neither do I.

Starting our mornings in the dark, the air was cool enough to require full-length warm-ups.  Even after sunrise, we'd have to wait for the sun to rise above the tree-line.  Then, around 10am, the sun would hit us and...pow...instant heat.

Me and my shadow.

Did you know that the pecan was the only nut native to America?  I know, you're thinking it's not really a nut, the Pecan is technically a drupe, a fruit with a single stone or pit, surrounded by a husk.  You can take that fine point up with the Texas Pecan Board.

The pecan is deciduous, losing its leaves in the winter.  It has never occurred to me where pecans came from...now I know.

This ranch had a unique way of decorating its fence posts.

These boots were no longer made for walking.

The 50 miles we covered were non-stopping rolling hills.  The 2259 feet we climbed was offset by the 2215 feet we descended.

Our usual PB&J snack break on a flat area between the rollers.

The ranches in the Texas Hill Country looked different from those in the flat area of Eastern Texas.  We did not see the herds of free-range cows, but we did see emu and deer.  It turns out that people come to this area for emu hunting and the hunting of other ratites.

Ratites like the emu, ostrich and rhea are prized for their meat and eggs.  Did you know that the carving of ostrich eggs has been become a unique art form?

Do you see the deer in the background on the left?

The fat from the emu is used to make emu oil.  It has been used historically by the Australian aborigines for the treatment of burns, wounds, bruises, and as a pain reliever for bone, muscle, and joint disorders.While there are no studies showing that emu oil is effective in humans, it is marketed and promoted as a dietary supplement with a wide variety of claimed health benefits. Commercially marketed emu oil supplements are poorly standardized and vary widely in their potency. Such products are sometimes marketed deceptively; the U.S. Food and Drug Administration highlighted emu oil in a 2009 article on "How to Spot Health Fraud."

As with many of the ranches we saw throughout Texas, some had elaborate entrances.

Turns out there was much more here than meets the eye; this was the Heavens Doorstep Exotic Game Ranch, one of several larges ranches in the Texas Hill Country where you can hunt trophy-sized game.  You'll need your own Texas Hunting License but they provide the cooler to clean your  36" buck (at a cost of $1800.)  I guess it's sustainable. 

Biking on these remote roads, for awhile you think you are the only two people left in the world.  Then, out of nowhere, something unexpected appears.  In this case, two caravans of shiny Mazdas, each with about 10 cars, came zipping by, then zipping away.

The 30 or so gleaming Mazdas that zipped on by were ridiculously incongruous.  The 70mph speed limit probably had a lot of appeal.

But, far and away what we saw the most of on these remote rural roads were groups of bikers.  In addition to enjoying the solitude and scenery of this area, many were on their way to the Lone Star Motorcycle Museum, which we later passed and Bob neglected to take a picture of.

Bikers were always respectful of Lani and I on our bikes, usually waving as they went by.  Lani and I had developed a new respect for bikers...they were just out there to enjoy the road, have some fun and hang out.

Not surprisingly, hill followed hill but, somehow, it had been okay.  Each long climb was followed by a decent downhill that would get you at least part way up the next hill.  At least there wasn't a wind.  That would have sucked.

Usually, we were alone on the road, save for a few bikers.

After 5 hours of biking over about 8 hours, covering the 50 miles in just under an average of 10mph, we came to a wicked downhill where our speed peaked at 34 mph.

After a steady climb of 700' over the preceding 5 hours, we dropped 600 feet in a matter of seconds.

Our route had us continuing to a site that was another 20 miles away.  It was already late in the afternoon and we were wiped out...we were looking for anywhere to crash, but the Garmin showed nothing for miles, neither cheap motels or camping facilities.  Then, we were saved by the Fox Fire Cabins, a small collection of cabins and such on a large piece of property near a river.

Lani collapsed in the tire swing as I went into the office to see if there was anything available for the night.

 This huge piece of property features several cabins and a play area.  The seven log cabins on this large piece of land, along side of the Sabinal River, were completely booked, save for one house.  Here?  Near Vanderpool, population 12, an unincorporated town so small that Wikipedia barely manages three lines about it?!?  Was its proximity to the Lone Star Motor Cycle Museum?  Was it the glowing New York Times article from 1989 that still resonated across the Texas Hill Country, drawing families to what the may consider to be the most beautiful part of Texas?  Dunno...all I know is that we were beat and that they had a house for us.

We were both wiped out...I truly felt like I would never, ever be able to pedal again.

It was sorta ridiculous, this house on its own 2 acres, but the rate wasn't that crazy and, at the moment, we didn't see any reasonable alternative.

The house could easily handle a family, or two.  The area was beautiful; Lani and I could both see ourselves returning.

The office manager who checked us in had to make a ride to the market and took Lani along.  Lani came back with some diet Coke, produce and something for dinner.

80% ground beef (and 20% fat) in a tube...who knew?

The beef was shaped into burgers, seasoned with black pepper and placed on the grill.

Under other circumstances, I'd have a glass of red wine nearby.

 Not elegant, but pretty satisfying.

All we had for the sandwich was the white bread that had become progressively smashed in Lani's pannier.  I served a side dish of lentils and quinoa.  The burger was moderately-to-severely outstanding.

A few feet from the house was a large patch of bamboo.

Bamboo are the tallest of the grass species. 

 Lani is fascinated with bamboo.

Under the right conditions, bamboo can grow up to 39" daily.

And, suddenly, we felt like we were on vacation.  The sky was blue and the surrounding tree-covered hills made me feel like I was on a remote island.  I wanted to stay...both of us talked about returning to the Texas Hill Country at some future time.

The house, the property upon which it sat and the general surrounds were very peaceful.

This was the most exhausting day of the trip so far and, as exhausting as it was, the serenity of our temporary home made it all good.